Day 9 – Down to Missoula

I promised myself a relatively short day today and I was glad of the chance to rest and reset. Route 12 took me all the way into Missoula and the first 30 miles were downhill. It was like yesterday in reverse, following the smaller Lolo Creek on its way down through high, forested mountains. The road was straighter and I think a little steeper; but there was a gentle breeze in my face today so effort was still expended.

This side of the mountains, in Montana, the valley was broader and there were more farms, ranches and settlements generally, with cows and horses in the fields that lined the valley floor. The mountain sides showed signs in several places of large forest fires, with blackened trunks of pine trees punctuating the otherwise bare hills. These areas went on for miles at a time, and it was a sad sight. It takes a very long time for them to regenerate.

Then, suddenly, at the bottom of a long, straight downhill section, I reached a road junction with all sorts of traffic, gas stations, fast food and, according to the signs, a lot of casinos. This was Lolo. I won’t call it pretty. But it provided me with a late breakfast, which I needed quite badly.

Lolo

The rest of the way into downtown Missoula, perhaps ten miles, I was able to follow a cycle path. Initially this simply followed the busy dual carriageway at a safe distance; but then it turned into a neat urban bike path that followed the line of a railway right down to the riverbank in the city centre. Despite the oppressive heat, a few other people were out on bikes and I got a nice feeling about this little university city, surrounded on all sides by mountains.

Downtown Missoula

I found my motel and crashed out to avoid the heat, making a brief foray outside to a local bike shop to pump up my tyres and ask for advice about crossing the state on a bicycle. At least I have found a good map to help me. It even shows gravel roads!

The temperature at 7pm today was 98F. It is due to cool off a little over the coming days. I walked into town around sunset when it was bearable and found the place to my liking. Missoula has been a milestone that I have had ahead of me for many days, and it was signposted from more than 200 miles away. I have managed to set out a couple of possible routes for the next week of cycling but there are some big empty spaces out there! For a couple of days at least it will be more mountains. I have found places to stay as far as Helena, the state capital, and we will go from there. It is a complicated business!