St Augustine is the oldest city in the USA. It was founded in the 1560s and it has an old world feel to its historic centre that stretches along the broad riverfront. All of this was evident as I ended my journey here today – an unusually quaint and attractive finish to another day that took me in the straightest of straight lines northbound for 67 more miles.
You couldn’t say any of that about Daytona Beach, where my day got going on this most perfect of mornings. Of all the sections of the Florida coast I have so far seen, this is probably the least lovely. It’s OK, and the firm, long, sandy beach is a delight (even for car drivers, who are allowed to take their cars on the sand!). But the architecture is instantly forgettable and it was the first place I had seen significant numbers of closed businesses. Overall you might say it was more Blackpool than St Tropez, which is perhaps why I was able to get such a great breakfast this morning at the very popular Cracked Egg Diner. It was the best cup of tea I have enjoyed all week.
As with all of the other days so far, the vast majority of the Florida coastline I passed today is heavily developed. The first ten miles or so were a succession of Comfort Inns, Holiday Inns, Best Westerns, 7 Elevens and outlandish crazy golf courses. Then for a while the buildings got smaller and retreated to the land side of the road only. I reached a more traditional seaside town, with colourfully modest residences, called Flagler Beach, where for several miles there was major work taking place to restore the sand dunes. But even near here, a lot of the beach was private, accessible only to residents via chained off entry points.
Later in the afternoon, things got very exclusive as I passed huge, gated golfing beach communities set away from the main road. It looked very nice, but I really felt I didn’t belong here, being neither a golfer nor sufficiently wealthy (not a complaint on either account, just obvious facts). There was a beautiful river estuary and a few undeveloped state country parks, and then I was on the edge of St Augustine. And a good thing, too, because I had a dinner appointment tonight with an old work colleague from London who has been living out here for the past twelve years. The power of Facebook!
St Augustine was busy tonight with visitors. We went out for food and beer and had a walk around the old streets and buildings. I need to give it more time tomorrow, because this feels like a place of some significance, not to be rushed. I may even stay another night because prices are low on Sunday evening and I should still get to Savannah on Wednesday evening from here whether I start out later tomorrow or not. It’s very tempting!
Looks like you’re back in Colombia. 🙂