Day 5 – Gravel and Warm Showers

It got better

I had more than 100 miles to cover today, so an early start was necessary and – for once- achieved. In the relatively cool morning temperatures I made excellent initial progress, skimming along through the irrigated agricultural surroundings of the Yakima Valley on mostly empty roads between fields of grapes or apples or hops. Around 10am I stopped in the small town of Benton City at a charming little coffee shop for some welcome breakfast. It was run by two of the loveliest young people I have met in ages – a couple perhaps- and it seemed to be newly opened. I was the only customer and I stayed for a while. I hope they make it.

How they keep it green

Pushing on, I reached the edge of the Tri-cities of Richland / Kennewick / Pasco, which sit on the banks of several rivers that come together here. Easily the largest is our old friend the Columbia River, still very broad at this point where it performs a kind of shepherd’s crook turn back to the northwest. I crossed it for the fourth and last time on this trip and moved from Richland into Pasco. Google maps was doing well so far today and it took me along a magnificent series of bike paths that stuck close to the Columbia River bank. People were out in speedboats enjoying the relative cool the river offered, speeding under the huge bridges. The rest of the town looked uninspiring but I would happily have stopped for a drink or even a meal at a riverside cafe had there been one. Yet among lots of public parks and cycle paths, nothing at all was to be found. It was bring your own picnic or nothing. Not even an ice cream seller, who would have made a killing in this heat.

Beating the heat

My main excitement, beyond the river and its boats and bridges, was the sight of a slow-moving freight train crossing the rail bridge. Despite the river’s great width, the train was about twice as long as the bridge!

Train bridge

I finally crossed the not insubstantial Snake River. This major waterway starts its life up near Yellowstone and winds its way through many spectacular parts of the western US to empty into the Columbia at this rather drab point. On the far side I finally found a Subway clone at a gas station in a new-build housing development. Any port in a storm.

Every time I stopped I would drink seemingly gallons of fluid – especially my favourite Root Beer – but in this heat I was still facing an uphill battle to stay hydrated. I would drain my water bottles of warm water between stops and then refill them with ice and cold water. A sign hours later at 6.38pm put the temperature at 92 F /34 C. I was out cycling before in the worst of it. I don’t remember needing to pee all day.

Big river

That was partly why I cursed Google maps after all its good early work, for taking me back onto gravel. My route to Walla Walla, where I am staying the night, was about 40 more miles and I was offered two suggested routes. After a further root beer stop at the road junction decision point, I opted for the one that said “Best route” rather than the one that said “Less traffic”. My route set off arrow straight along a good quality road that serviced various large agricultural concerns. It was completely traffic free. Then after perhaps ten miles, it suddenly turned to gravel. I was alone in the middle of absolutely nowhere once again in the searing heat; but I knew I had almost reached a T-junction, so I continued. It was hard going and slow. When I reached the junction after a couple more miles, the new road was also gravel, only with bigger hills. It also announced itself as a primitive road. You don’t say. This was really not fun. In the end I had about an hour of it and although it got better, I had a scare or two. After that, and one final root beer to calm and cool me back down, I ignored Google maps and stuck to the excellent and very quiet old route 12, which I have been advised to stay on all day tomorrow as well.

I got to Walla Walla on time to meet Brad, my first Warm Showers host. This is an excellent internet community I have just joined, where long distance cyclists offer each other a bed for the night. And it seems to work! So I didn’t want to arrive late, because Brad wanted to go out for beer and food. Which we did, as soon as I had my warm shower. I suspect I will be using this again, although the membership pays for itself the very first time! What a clever idea. Brad is a tri-athlete enjoying his retirement years by staying very fit. He advised me not to work a day longer than I have to. I couldn’t agree more.