The superb Erie Canal cycle trail once again delivered an excellent day’s cycling for us as we advanced another 85 miles towards New York City. Today, things were a little different. First, the weather was mostly cool and cloudy, with little sign of the sun. It gave everything a distinctly autumnal feel. It is raining overnight tonight, the first I have seen since way back in Montana, I think, so I can hardly complain.
Also today, the landscape seemed to turn more bumpy, with the broad Mohawk River, which doubled as the Erie Canal, confined between low wooded hills on both sides. We tracked Interstate 90 for quite a few miles today, as well as the usual freight train tracks, and the towns we saw had a much more industrial feel about them, which at times made them feel a little run down.
There were some attractive places, too. I especially liked our brunch stop in Little Falls, where old stone mills – now containing arty cafes – lined the fast flowing river. It put me in mind of New Mills in Derbyshire, which is “a bit like” Little Falls. Or so I thought. I also thought it all felt a lot like Western Pennsylvania, where my wife Jenni grew up.
Later in the afternoon, we stopped for cake in a fancy place right on the bike trail in the town of Amsterdam. It was predominantly a restaurant, with under cover outside tables. I asked the hostess if it was the kind of place we could get coffee and cake. The poor girl looked at me a little bewildered and said “we have Italian food”. But, as it turned out, they also had a fabulous array of deserts and were happy to sell us an afternoon treat. This more than compensated for my Cappuccino, which bore no resemblance to any I have ever had elsewhere.
The day slipped by in a long, broad strip of concrete or tarmac bike trail, and on these smooth surfaces we went a good bit faster than the two previous days. It was excellent riding.
There were some other cyclists out today. I would say that they were mostly older, slower and considerably more covered in warm clothing than the two of us. But it was good to see the trails being used. There seemed to be a few groups of cyclists making bicycle trips across New York state, staying overnight at various points. Everyone seems a bit surprised at how far we have come and are going. I am glad we are not trying to go further; but so far it has been very comfortable.
We left the canal for the final couple of miles and passed through the middle of Schenectady. It is bigger than I expected and quite a mixed bag. There is a development of fancy new apartments facing the marina and the river, but a couple of miles across town we passed though quite a deprived looking area with several boarded up homes and businesses, where it felt best to keep moving.
Tomorrow we will reach the Hudson Valley where we turn south. We may be doing so in drizzle. You can’t avoid it forever!
Erie Canal trail looks great. One day maybe!