Day 31 – Ionia to Flint, Michigan

Today was probably the coolest, cloudiest day of my entire journey so far. It was a bit like being at home. I didn’t mind at all and almost reached for a second layer once or twice. But it stayed comfortable and dry all day after early morning rain that I missed. Under normal circumstances this would not be notable; but in the context of this month of cycling it is very much the exception.

I think I found the source of the pandemic

Other elements were less remarkable today. The landscape was mostly flat and the countryside was pleasant but not especially memorable. The standout features were the series of small towns that I passed through every hour or so, linked together by the same railway bike path that I used yesterday. It saw me through half or more of today’s miles without changing very much. Close to each town it would take on a lovely smooth tarmac surface, then it would change abruptly to crushed limestone for the intervening miles. It was all pretty predictable. But it worked and kept me away from the trucks and cars.

Railway restrooms

In each town was the old train depot, usually a small building with a rounded end that stood apart from everything else where the old tracks would have been. Today, they have mostly been repurposed by their community – often as public “restrooms” (toilets) – and are generally in a very good state of repair. There was a sense of civic pride on display. One town offered a comprehensive bicycle maintenance station, which I used to pump up my tyres. Everywhere had a healthy range of bedding plants and hanging baskets on display and it all felt cared for. The towns were mostly founded in the 1850s so there is a sense of history and nostalgia about them, but on a modest scale. The main streets tend to run at 90 degrees to the busy through traffic, so the business districts are pleasantly free from noise and, in most cases, appear to have a good range of services on offer, including a few very stylish old cinemas that are still in business. These may not be holiday destinations; but there are many worse places in the world to take time out from cycling, even if the cafe menus remain stubbornly familiar and not particularly imaginative. There are only so many ways to put meat in between two pieces of bread!

Tomorrow should take me to within sight of Canada, a short ferry ride away, all being well. And then another adventure will begin. One more day of Michigan first. This is a three-day state and I am still near the middle of it.