Day 10 – Missoula to Ovando

What a bizarre day I had today. It began with a severe bout of toothache, which woke me up in the small hours and required painkillers to contain. Since it was Friday and I was about to head into the middle of nowhere at all, I decided it would be wise to get some medical advice. Incredibly, 90 minutes later, I was sitting in a dentist’s chair being X-rayed. How’s that for prompt service?

To cut a long story short, I had an infection that had flared up and I was prescribed antibiotics by a very nice dentist who is also a cyclist. So we chatted a bit about my trip and the realities of cycling in Montana. Which, so far, for me, has been a very positive experience. I picked up my prescription from the huge supermarket-cum-pharmacy over the road from my motel in Missoula, still a little bemused by the whole experience. How did that all happen so fast? And of course, since I went to the dentist I have experienced no further symptoms. Typical. But better safe than sorry.

Having not eaten, I grabbed brunch at the Starbucks implant in the supermarket while I waited for my prescription. I also took the opportunity to change into cycling clothes in their restroom, where the sound system was absolutely superb. The supermarket was playing some decent tracks (Sting, KT Tunstall, Madness, and other songs that had actual tunes) rather than the usual dross you get most places these days. But in the bathroom I was treated to Robbie Williams singing Angels, and I am willing to admit that I joined in. Such was my feeling of exhuberance after this morning’s unlikely events.

And so into the city centre, a few blocks away, where I paid a visit to the national headquarters of the Adventure Cycling Association. This was a complete coincidence. I had heard a little from other American cyclists about this charitable organisation; but had no idea they were based here in Missoula. Until now, that is, and I am so pleased I made the effort to call in. Geoff, who was front of shop, was a delight to chat to and showed me a map of the highways of Montana that indicates the available width of shoulder for cyclists. Together we came up with a plan for how I might cross this huge state from west to east. Then I had my photo taken with a snazzy modern Polaroid camera and was added to their wall of cyclists. Brilliant!

Look hard, on light blue card left of the gap, 5 rows from bottom.

Then it was time to fuel up for my afternoon ride. I had 55 miles to cycle to the small “town” of Ovando (population about 50), and the only place serving food there stopped at 8pm. So, on Geoff’s advice, I stopped off first around the corner at Worden’s, who attract a cool clientele and do a wicked sandwich. There were several young cyclists there to chat with, and I could happily have stayed longer; but they had work and I had cycling to take us in different directions, so off I went.

Worden’s finest

Missoula is not a huge place, and it’s downtown is not in the middle, so you leave it behind surprisingly quickly along bike-friendly routes. Soon I was in the mountains, following river valleys out into the American west. The weather today, thank goodness, was significantly cooler and cloudier than the last several days, and what a difference that made. I found it easy going on a broad shoulder, following Montana route 200 through ranch land with dark mountains as an ever-present backdrop. I stopped just once, at a handily placed gas station/country store/bar/casino, but otherwise kept riding smoothly along, enjoying a following breeze and long sections of downhill. This was big country.

Montana skies

Just when I was ready for the day to end, I reached Ovando. What a place! It isn’t big; but it lacks nothing in character. The main buildings, including where I am staying, are wooden and look unchanged in many years. I am also deep in Trump country here, if the regular signs are anything to go by.

NOT FAKE – This photo has not been altered in any way

I had a great time over dinner with two fellow guests at the Ovando Inn, Jereme and his daughter Haley, who are here for a fishing trip. Jereme works for Diagio and knows his way around the world of whisky. They were both newish to a life in Montana having previously lived in Idaho and Washington, and were getting to know what life was like as an “outsider”. It was a pleasant evening and great to cross paths.

Tomorrow I am heading over mountains to Helena, the state capital. Then I am really moving out into the empty spaces. At least the heat has relented. I needed that.

Home for tonight